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Embroidery on clothing

Embroidery was an acceptable passtime of the noble lady and indeed it was considered one of her finer accomplishments. Many of the embroidery techniques used in the middle ages are still in use today- couching, split stitch and appliqué.

Embroidery was used to provide finishing touches to almost any garment. A kirtle neck band, sleeve edges or hem or the edges of a mantle. Veils might also be embroidered at the edges. Popular art shows many surcotes with embroidered bands. Popular motifs included heraldry, mottos or phrases of love, animals, flowers and botanical themes and religious scenes and characters like the Virgin and Son or a patron Saint.

The detail above from the 1445-1450 painting by Rogier van der Weyden of Saints Margaret And Apollonia shows embroidery, possibly gold thread, around the neckline of the garment. Another detail at right from the same painting also shows the bottom edge of a mantle with its heavy gold embroidery. The kirtle underneath and brocaded surcote can clearly be seen also.

There are very few existent fragments of medieval embroidery remaining. A beautiful sample of can be seen at right on an embroidered band. The embroidery was sewn onto a separate strip of fabric which was then stitched to the garment. Dated at the 13th century, it is a band of fantastic animals in roundels embroidered with gold thread on silk twill. Photo ©Timothy Mitchell, courtesy of the Victoria Albert Museum of London. (Currently seeking permission to use image)

 

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