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A
Look at Commercial Patterns
Many,
many commercial patterns are available but most of these are a mixture
of time periods designed to appeal the the Renaissance-fantasy-goth crowd.
While they are great patterns, they have no place in a medieval market.
Modifications of almost ALL of the patterns below ARE NECESSARY for good
results! They are included here only as a starting point for sewers.
Make a practice one out of some old sheets first. For better information
on how to make medieval clothes, try Sarah Thursfield's book, Medieval
Tailor's Assistant.
Patterns
for adults clothing
These are a good place to
start, however most of these will require modification of some kind. Some
of these are fantasy, so read the notes at the side carefully. For stallholders
themselves, the basic tunic with a sideless surcote for women or basic
tunic and hood for men will be suitable. If you are looking to make and
sell some outfits, some of the bottom patterns can be made in brocades,
silks and cotton velveteens.
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Ladies Dress and Surcote (above)
Burda 7977
I've included a big picture here because it's a pattern that's
really got it right. Ladies, it comes in all sizes and really
does look like the one pictures here. Historically, it's pretty
much put together right and you'll look great. If you don't want
the lacing (which can be at the back or front) just sew that seam
up. There should not be lacing on your arms. Feel free to button
or sew closed.
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 Period
Patterns 21
Womens gowns and surcotes
Great historical patterns which are accurate for a number of medieval
time periods. Includes surcotes and cotehardies/gowns/kirtles.
Available through BLUE
DRACO in Australia |
 Period
Patterns 23
Mens clothing
Great historical patterns for men which are accurate for a number
of medieval time periods. Includes both long and short tunics of
a few different styles.
Available through BLUE
DRACO in Australia |
 Reconstructing
History
14th Century Cotehardie for men
I haven't used this company before but others who have have said
that this is a pretty nice pattern. The body of this one is meant
to be quite a snug fit, so be mindful of what activity you are doing
and allow enough movent in the upper body if you need to, My tip
is to cut spaciously and take it in from there.
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 Reconstructing
History
14th Century Men Accessories
I haven't used this company before but others who have have said
that this is a pretty nice pattern.
A few patterns for the coif (mens and womens linen skullcap), hood,
underwear and hose which seem to be good. |
 Men's
and Ladies Basic Tunics.
Simplicity 8108
Avoid the over-the-shoulder sash and the Roman. The others are a
pretty good basic pattern. For the men, the tunic can be made long,
short or anywhere in between. For the women, a round or T neckline
can be decorated with embroidery or braid. Extra triangles of fabric
can to put into the bottom hem seams to make the skirt wider. The
dress will pull on over the head and be pulled in with a belt (either
thin leather or fabric). |
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Dress
with small hanging sleeve, Sideless surcote.
McCalls 3653
Do NOT use the blue dress. The outfit on the right is okay. The
cream underdress should actually be two seperate dresses and not
one dress with a fake undersleeve, but in the interests of keeping
it simple, it's not too bad. It would lace at the back or pull on
over the head. The red surcote would be
worn over a dress with plain sleeves and doesn't need the lacing
at the sides or trim around the bottom.
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Cotehardie
with Sideless Surcote
Simplicity 8725
I have this pattern. The basic dress (cotehardie) used a massive
amount of fabric (approx 8m) for the dress alone. Sleeves are excellent.
The low, wide neckline is nice. I'm really not too convinced about
the placement of actual seams on this one but it's better than most.
The red sideless surcote is too long. Altogether not too bad if
you have nothing to work from.
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Sideless
Surcote & Cotehardie
Simplicity 9785
Do NOT use the red dress, it's pure fantasy. Avoid it at all costs.
The yellow sideless surcote is a fair sort of pattern. Uses approx
6 metres of fabric, and the same for lining. You can make your own
with less fabric. I haven't heard if the underdress pattern is a
good one. Anyone out there used it? Please let
me know.
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Lady's 15th Century
Gown
Simplicity 9929
The bottom right picture is good with some modifications. The collar
needs to be fabric or fur, not lace. Fake fur usually looks dreadful,
so a black cotton velveteen works well. The sleeve needs to be a
straight sleeve. Usually this dress opens at the front and is laced
on the inside and covered with a really, really wide belt. The V
piece you see is your underdress showing, not a sewn in bit. The
big picture on the left is too late for a medieval event. It's Renaissance.
The picture at the top is not good.
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15th
Century Gown
Simplicity 9058.
A pair of 15th century gowns and hennins. Between the two patterns,
you get one good dress. Start with the dress on the left, but use
the sleeves from the dress on the right. The sleeves should be permanently
sewn in and leave off the frills at the wrist. Do not use
the big sleeves!! Again, the collar looks bad in fake fur, so use
a black velveteen instead. The pointy hat (hennin) is right. Usually
this dress opens at the front and is laced on the inside and covered
with a really, really wide belt. The V piece you see is your underdress
showing, not a sewn in bit.
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Mens
or womans basic tunic
Style 2313
This pattern can be found in Op shops here and there and can be
used for both men and women. Widen the shoulders a little for men.
Man can have a split up the front or sides. Try to keep the sleeves
straight. For women, use this as either an underdress or to use
as an overdress, you can widen the sleeves or keep them straight
and make the bottom hem flare out to add fullness. Pull it in at
the waist with a belt.
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 Basic
T-tunics
McCalls 2060
I haven't used these but for a good basic tunic the construction
seems to be pretty good. Nice in white linen for underwear or in
colours for workers. Modern release and still available. |
Patterns
for headwear, cloaks, hoods & bags
Headwear played an important
part of dressing in the middle ages. Hoods can be both plain or decorative
with daggues (the bits that hand down around the bottom) and long liripipes
(the long dangly bit on the hood at the back). Hoods can be made particolour-
one colour on the left, another colour on the right. Cloaks tended to
be plain and were functional. No crushed velvet or shiny satins please.
Patterns
for children's clothing
This covers
the different brands of basic children's clothing. Pretty braids can be
added to the neckline and sleeve edges for the girls. Both straight and
bell sleeves are fine for girls. The basic short tunic is fine for boys.
You can put a decorative celtic type braid on the hems of the boy's tunic.
Use cotton/linen blends for both boys and girls or cotton velveteen/ cotton
brocade for girls dresses. NO panne velvet.
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Tunics
for boys, dresses for girls
Simplicity 4797
The basic tunic is good for boys, and the girl's dress can be widened
at the hem for a fuller dress or can have triangular gores inserted
into the four seams at the bottom. Both girls and boys outfits do
not have a waist seam. Don't both with the sashes and overcoats.
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Tunics
for boys, dresses for girls.
Butterick 6505
The basic short tunic is good for boys, and the
girl's dress can be widened at the hem for a fuller dress or can
have triangular gores inserted into the four seams at the bottom.
Both girls and boys outfits do not have a waist seam. Don't bother
with the shoulder sash, the big round collar, (bottom left on the
dark blue outfit) or the overcoat.
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Tunics
for boys, dresses for girls.
McCalls 2340
Pretty much everything here is
right. The basic short tunic is good for boys, and the girl's dress
can be widened at the hem for a fuller dress or can have triangular
gores inserted into the four seams at the bottom. Both girls and
boys outfits do not have a waist seam. Don't bother with the shoulder
sash or the overcoats.
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Girl's
basic dress and boy's entire outfit.
McCalls 2854
Only two any good here. The bigger girl's dress (top left orange
one) is fine. Braid at neck and sleeves would be fine. A belt would
be worn to pull it in with a little pouch hanging from it. No elastic
at sleeves. Round or T neck. The boy in the bottom left corner is
FABULOUS!!!!
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Boy's
outfit
McCalls M3789
ONLY use the boy's outfit in the top right hand corner. It's pretty
good. DO NOT use the others. They are fantasy.
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Boy's
outfit
Simplicity 5512
Use the boy's outfit in the bottom right hand corner. It's pretty
good. The little hooded cloak in the centre look okay. DO NOT use
the others. They are fantasy or the wrong time period.
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© Rosalie Gilbert
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Gilbert unless stated.
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