ITEMS OF CLOTHING

UNDERWEAR

THE CHEMISE

BREASTCOVERINGS

UNDERPANTS

HOSE & GARTERS

The Chemise, Shift or Smock-
The inner layer
STYLES - FABRICS - DECORATION

The chemise, shift or smock was the innermost layer of the medieval lady's dresses, much like a petticoat or slip today. It was worn next to the skin to absorb the bodily odors and keep the outer layers smelling fresher for longer. At a time when laundering of the great robes, houppelandes and kirtles which could be heavily embellished with embroidery and semiprecious stones, it was wise to keep the laundering of the outer robes to a minimum.

In 1313, Anicia atte Hegge, a widow from Hampshire, made a will on the surrendering of her holding to her son which included the stipulation that she would be provided with various items of clothing including a chemise worth 8d each year.

Styles
There appear to be three distinctly different styles of chemise or smock. Contemporary illustrations usually show men and women naked in the bedchamber, but occasionally show women modestly in their underclothes. From these images, and from existing garments we can deduce what was worn under the outer clothing.

The first style seems to be made of an opaque fabric, probably linen, constructed with fitted sleeves and not overly shaped through the body. It can be seen at left in the detail from the 14th century manuscript, Tacuinum Sanitatis. The man and woman working outside in the summer sun have both removed their outer clothing and are working in their underwear. For this to be an acceptible practice, the chemise or smock was probably made of linen and of the thickness of a regular kirtle.

The second type of chemise appears to be a strapless, petticoat-like dress. It is unclear what the exact length of garment was as the existing garment is not complete, although most illuminations show a garment approximately shin length.

The artifact chemise pictured at right is dated from the 14th century and shows a sleeveless chemise. The detail shown at the top of the page is an illumination taken from the Wenceslas Bible, around 1390-1400. It shows two women in their underclothes tending to a man in a bath. The chemises shown there seem consistent with this second style.

There are also quite a few bathing images from 14th century Bohemian manuscripts where women are shown with a wooden bucket and wearing a chemise. Some of these are semi-opaque but others, like the detail shown at right, are quite sheer. Almost all of these are of a similar style- a garment with thin shoulder straps and no sleeves.

The third style of chemise seems to have persisted from the 1300's through to the renaissance where it was clearly visible through slashed clothing and at necklines. It is a more voluminous style and has puffed sleeves and appears to be made of a finer type of fabric than the opaque linens previously worn by women. The artifact chemise pictured at right is dated from France in the 1300's.

It seems unlikely that this particular style would have been favoured by ladies who preferred the more form-fitting kirtles, and was possibly the choice of those who preferred the more voluminous houppelandes.


Fabrics
It would appear that the most common fabric used for the chemise or smock are linens of varying qualities according to the social position of the wearer and the finances available. According to Francoise Piponnier and Perrine Mane in their book, Dress In The Middle Ages, peasants and the less affluent would have worn hemp underclothes which were less expensive than linen. The detail at right from 1330-40 painting Scenes From The Life Of St John The Baptist appears to show a fabric of reasonable weight and stiffness suggesting linen.

In several instances we hear of noblewomen who become nuns and renounce their silken underthings. According to one written reference, a noble lady took up a hair shirt to replace her underclothes of silk as part of her penitence. This suggests that ladies of high society may have enjoyed luxurious silken underclothes.

Decoration
Generally, the chemise during the medieval period is depicted as plain and white. Later in the Renaissance, many had blackwork embroidered at the neckline and sleeves. It appears that the chemise during the medieval period may have been decorated at least sometimes.

In 1298 the Consol of Narbonne passed a law against laced outer dresses which allowed the pleated and embroidered under-chemise to show. This tells us that at that period, at least, the chemise could also be pleated and embroidered. For a law to passed, it stands to reason that it must be an occurance common enough for it to be a concern.

In the 13th century, we read a poem by an unknown author who laments the Sumptuary Laws and the restrictions on her clothing and in particular, her chemise. She says that she can no longer wear her white chemise which is richly embroidered with silk in bright colours and gold and silver. She bemoans, Alas, I dare not wear it! indicating not only that in her time period at least, the chemise could be richly embroidered with silk and precious metal thread but that the Sumptuary Laws were partially effective.

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