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My Sewing: Headwear That I've made For Me
Headpieces - Circlets - Hoods - Veils & Wimples - Barbettes & fillets - Coifs


Headpieces

Red silk templers with pewter coronet

Country of Origin: England, France
Time period: late 14th-15th century
Basic Style of Headwear: Circlet/Coronet
Outer Colour/colours: Dark red, silver
Fabric: Silk
Construction Materials: Metal, fabric, false hair, gemstones
Metal: Pewter
Details of Gemstones & Pearls: Garnets, freshwater pearls (sm & large)
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Quilting cotton
Made by: Rosalie using pre-bought coronet
Documentation: Isabeau de Baviere



Circlets & fillets
Brass and gilded circlet set with precious gems

Country of Origin:
England France Europe
Time period: 14th century
Basic Style of Headwear: Circlet/Coronet
Outer Colour/colours: Gold
Lining Fabric: Leather
Construction Material: Brass, garnets, freshwater pearls, gold-plated roses
Metal: Brass for main circlet
Construction: Solid brass circlet with gold roses set with fresh water pearls evenly spaced among clusters of flowers made from settings with freshwater pearls and garnet centres. Lined with leather.
Made by: Rosalie Gilbert
Documentation 14th century artifact. Manuscripts, Bohemia etc

Silver circlet set with precious gems

Country of Origin:
England France Europe
Time period: 14th century
Basic Style of Headwear: Circlet/Coronet
Outer Colour/colours: Gold
Lining Fabric: felt
Construction Material: Brass, freshwater pearls, silver roses, small silver 5-lobed flowers.
Metal: Brass for main circlet
Construction: Solid brass circlet with

. Lined with felt.
Made by: Rosalie Gilbert
Documentation: 14th century artifact. Limbourgh Brothers, 15th century.

Brass and gilded circlet set with precious gems

Country of Origin:
England France Europe
Time period: 14th century
Basic Style of Headwear: Circlet/Coronet
Outer Colour/colours: Gold
Lining Fabric: felt
Construction Material: Brass, garnets, freshwater pearls, gold-plated roses
Metal: Brass for main circlet
Construction: Solid brass circlet with

. Lined with felt.
Made by: Rosalie Gilbert
Documentation 14th century artifact. Manuscripts, Bohemia etc

Brass and gilded circlet set with precious gems

Country of Origin:
England France Europe
Time period: 14th century
Basic Style of Headwear: Circlet/Coronet
Outer Colour/colours: Gold
Lining Fabric: cotton
Construction Material: Brass, garnets, pearls, roses cups and silver flowers.
Metal: Brass for main circlet
Construction: Solid brass circlet with

. Lined with felt.
Made by: Rosalie Gilbert
Documentation: c1340. The foolish Virgins. Klosterneuburg Gospels. Schaffhausen, City Library. Gen 8, folio 161r.

photo shows circlet unfinished

Brass circlet set with flowers and garnets

Country of Origin:
England France Europe
Time period: 14th century
Basic Style of Headwear: Circlet/Coronet
Outer Colour/colours: Gold
Lining Fabric: Cotton
Construction Material: Brass, garnets, silver flowers
Metal: Brass for main circlet
Construction: Solid brass circlet with silver flowers set with garnets in the centre on brass pins.
Lined with cotton narrow ware tape.
Made by: Rosalie Gilbert
Documentation: 14th century artifact. Manuscripts, Bohemia etc

photo shows circlet unfinished

Brass and circlet set with roses

Country of Origin:
England France Europe
Time period: 14th century
Basic Style of Headwear: Circlet/Coronet
Outer Colour/colours: Gold
Lining Fabric: felt
Construction Material: Brass, roses
Metal: Brass for main circlet
Construction: Solid brass circlet with brass roses.
Lined with felt.
Made by: Rosalie Gilbert
Documentation: 1325 Thetford Abbey, England. Altar frontal.

photo shows circlet unfinished.

Green patterned silk circlet with pearls

Country of Garment:
England/Europe
Time Period: 14th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: silver-green
Outer Fabric: patterned silk
Lining Colour: black
Lining Fabric: wool felt
Decorative features: garnet beads, freshwater pearls of 2 sizes forming an oval pattern. Freshwater pearls individually stitched at the top and along the crown.
Construction method: Hand constructed and hand stitched.
Documentation: 1250 Cathedral of St Catherine and Maurice Germany
Scarlet silk fillet with pearl roses

Country of Garment:
England & Europe
Time Period: 13-15th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: Scarlet
Outer Fabric: 100% Dupion silk
Decorative features: roses made with petals of pearls stitched at intervals around the entire circlet
Construction method: Hand stitched with scarlet silk thread onto a woven band.
Documentation: Detail of the Foolish Virgins. Klosterneuburg Gospels, ca. 1340. Schaffenhausen, City Library Gen 8, folio 161r.
Cream felt and pearl fillet

Country of Garment:
England/Europe
Time Period: 14th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: Cream
Outer Fabric: Wool felt
Lining Colour: Cream
Lining Fabric: Wool felt
Decorative features: Freshwater pearls sewn in a cross formation, Gold metal woven braid stitched at the bottom with freshwater pearls hand stitched into each segment.
Construction method: Hand constructed and hand stitched.
Documentation: 1250 Cathedral of St Catherine and Maurice Germany


Hoods - Silk

Gold and white silk hood

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with tippet
Outer Colour: Gold
Outer Fabric: Silk
Lining Colour: White
Lining Fabric: Silk
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: Silk embroidery- two lines and a line of scallops, gold plated brass roses on points. long tippet.
Construction method: Hand stitched with silk thread. Based on existing hood patterns.
Documentation: Embroidery from the Romance of Alexander, France, 14th century

Blue and white daggued silk hood

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with rectangular daggues
Outer Colour: Peacock blue
Outer Fabric: Silk
Lining Colour: Off white
Lining Fabric: Silk
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: Silk embroidery- 2 sets of two lines above the daggues. Silk embroidery around the daggue edges.
Construction method: Hand stitched with silk thread. Based on existing hood patterns.
Documentation: 14th century, worn on a woman. Bohun Psalter folio 44r.



Hoods - Wool

Wine wool hood

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with tippet
Outer Colour: Wine
Outer Fabric: wool
Lining Colour: Off white
Lining Fabric: linen
Closures: none
Construction method: Hand stitched with silk thread. Shoulder gores. Based on existing hood patterns. Embroidery in progress based on French manuscript pattern.
Documentation: 14th century France

 

Mauve striped wool hood with buttons

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with tippet
Outer Colour: Mauve grey
Outer Fabric: Striped herringbone wool
Lining Colour: Off white
Lining Fabric: Herringbone Wool
Closures: Wool buttons, hand made.
Decorative features: none
Construction method: Hand stitched with silk thread. Shoulder gores. Based on existing hood patterns. hand made buttons.
Documentation: Coronation of Clarette, 14th century, French

Tan wool hood

Country of Garment:
England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with tippet
Outer Colour: Brown
Outer Fabric: Wool
Lining Colour: none
Lining Fabric: n/a
Closures: none
Construction method: Hand stitched with silk thread. Based on existing hood patterns. Hood has long cowl as seen in early 14th century manuscripts.
Made by: Rosalie
Documentation: Bohun Psalter, 14th century, England

Red wool hood with tippet and daggues

Country of Garment: England, France, Europe
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with long tippet
Outer Colour: Scarlet red
Outer Fabric: Wool
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: two lines of linen embroidery. Daggues around the bottom.
Construction method: Hand stitched with quilting thread.
Documentation: Basic pattern based on Bockstern-style pattern. Daggues as seen in Lancelot, France, 1344.and the Museum of London Finds book.

Brown wool hood with cream wool lining

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with tippet
Outer Colour: Brown
Outer Fabric: Wool
Lining Colour: Off white
Lining Fabric: Herringbone Wool
Closures: buttons
Construction method: Hand stitched with silk thread. Shoulder gores. Based on existing hood patterns from the Museum of London Clothing and Textile finds book. Hand made buttons.
Documentaton: 14th century, Coronation of Clarette, France. Luttrell Psalter, England

Brown wool hood with long cowl

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood
Outer Colour: Brown
Outer Fabric: 100% wool
Lining Colour: Pale pink
Lining Fabric: 100% Linen
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: none
Construction method: Hand stitched with silk thread. Based on existing hood patterns with a front gore.
Documentation: Bohun Psalter, England

Cornflower blue wool hood

Country of Garment
: England
Time Period:
14th century
Type of Garment: Hood

Outer Colour:
Blue
Outer Fabric:
100% wool
Lining Colour:
Pale blue
Lining Fabric:
100% Linen
Closures:
Buttons
Decorative features:
none
Construction method:
Hand stitched with silk thread. Based on manuscript styles of the early 14th century. Hand made buttons down the front and hand stitched buttonholes.
Documentation:
Ormesby Psalter folio 62v ,England


Veils & Wimples
Silk veil and wimple set with pearls
silk veil with pearls
silk wimple


Country of Origin:
Bohemia
Time period:
14th century
Style of Headwear:
Veil and wimple set
Colour:
Cream
Fabric:
100% Silk georgette
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc:
Silk thread. Real pearls sewn at the edge.
Details of construction:
Hand-stitched oval veil with rolled hem.
Documentation: 14th century, Bohemia, Virgin and Child

White silk frilled veil & fillet

Country of Origin: Germany
Time period:
14th century
Style of Headwear:
Frilled Veil
Colour:
White
Fabric:
100% Silk dupion
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc:
Silk thread.
Details of construction:
Hand-stitched rectangular veil with 1cm frills down the long sides.
Size:
Documentation: Frau von Oettingen, 1358 Germany, Kirchheim am Ries

White linen Bohun Psalter Z-frill veil

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Coif
Colour: White
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem. Two rows of frills in a Z pattern.
Documentation: Bohun Psalter, 14th century. England

Unbleached wool wimple set
unbleached wool semi-circular veil
unbleached wool rectangular wimple

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil and wimple set
Colour: Unbleached
Fabric: 100% fine wool
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: 100% linen thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: 1390, St Elizabeth Clothes the Poor and Tends the Sick

White linen wimple set - medium linen - set 1
white linen semi-circular veil
white linen rectangular wimple

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil and wimple set
Colour: White
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: 100% linen thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: Statue, 14th century

White linen wimple set - medium linen - set 2
white linen semi-circular veil
white linen rectangular wimple

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil and wimple set
Colour: White
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: 100% linen thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Made by: Rosalie.
Documentation: St Elizabeth Clothing The Poor, 1390.

White linen wimple set - extra fine linen
white linen semi-circular veil
white linen rectangular wimple

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil and wimple set
Colour: White
Fabric: 100% extra fine linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: 100% linen thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Made by: Rosalie.

Documentation: St Elizabeth Clothing The Poor, 1390.

Unbleached natural linen wimple set
unbleached natural small oval veil
unbleached natural linen wimple

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil and wimple set
Colour: Unbleached/natural
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation: St Elizabeth Clothing The Poor, 1390.

Stone linen wimple set
stone linen small oval veil
stone linen wimple

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil and wimple set
Colour: Stone
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation: St Elizabeth Clothing The Poor, 1390.

Large rectangular white linen head wrap
73cm x 150cm

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil/headwrap
Colour: White
Fabric: 100% pure linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Long, large rectangular veil. Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation: 1370-1427 Gentile de Fabriano.

Silk-linen blend head wrap

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Veil
Colour: Natural
Fabric: Silk and linen blend
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Rectangular veil. Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation: 1348 Romance of the Rose. Paris, folio 93r.

White silk Italian-style veil with pearls

Country of Origin: Italy
Time period:
14th century
Style of Headwear:
Veil
Colour:
White
Fabric:
100% Silk georgette
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc:
Silk thread, pearls
Details of construction:
Hand-stitched rectangular veil with pearls stitched in rows.
Size:
Documentation: France, Lombardy



Barbettes & Fillets

Silk barbette & frilled fillet

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 13th - 14th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: White
Outer Fabric: Dupion silk
Decorative features: fillet has a silk frill along the upper of the fillet
Construction method: Hand stitched with white silk thread.
Documentaton:

Frilled linen barbette & fillet

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 13th-14th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet with frills
Outer Colour: White
Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Decorative features: no decoration or embroidery.
Construction method: Hand stitched with white linen thread.
Documentaton: Manesse Codex, Germany. 14th century

Linen barbette & fillet

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 13th-14th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: White
Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Decorative features: no decoration or embroidery.
Construction method: Hand stitched with white linen thread.
Documentaton: Taymouth Hours. GB 1325. Folio 058r.

Silk fillet

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 10-15th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: White
Outer Fabric: Dupion silk
Decorative features: no decoration or embroidery.
Construction method: Hand stitched with white silk thread.
Documentaton:

Linen fillet

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 10-15th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: White
Outer Fabric: 100% linen
Decorative features: no decoration or embroidery.
Construction method: Hand stitched with white silk thread.
Documentaton:

Woven fillet

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 12-15th century
Type of Garment:
Fillet
Outer Colour: Cream
Outer Fabric: Cotton
Decorative features: No decorative features
Construction method: Hand constructed and fell hand stitched bought webbing.
Bought from: Webbing bought from Spotlight.



Coifs & Birgitta's Caps

St Birgirta's style coif

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Coif
Colour: White
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: white linen thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem. Two halves joined with decorative lacework along the centre seam. Long ties loop in a circle to secure the cap.
Documentation:

White Linen coif

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Coif
Colour: White
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation:

Natural white wool coif

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Coif
Colour: Unbleached white
Fabric: 100% wool
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation:

Pale grey Linen coif 1

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Coif
Colour: Pale grey
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation: 14th century

Pale grey Linen coif 2

Country of Origin: England
Time period: 14th century
Style of Headwear: Coif
Colour: Pale grey
Fabric: 100% Linen
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Cotton quilting thread
Details of construction: Hand stitched with rolled hem.
Documentation: 14th century


Garlands
Used for photography & special events

Garland of cornflowers

Country of Origin: All countries
Time period: 13th-15th century
Style of Headwear: Garland of cornflowers
Colour: Blue
Fabric: 100% artificial
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Artificial.
Details of construction:
Wire based circlet with artificial leaves sewn and glued onto the base. Flowers glued and stitched into place with cotton upholstery thread.
Documentation: 13th-14th century

Garland of roses

Country of Origin: All countries
Time period: 13th-15th century
Style of Headwear: Garland
Colour: dark pink
Fabric: 100% artificial
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Artificial.
Details of construction:
Wire based circlet with artificial leaves sewn and glued onto the base. Flowers glued and stitched into place with cotton upholstery thread.
Documentation: 13th-14th century

Garland of white flowers

Country of Origin: All countries
Time period: 13th-15th century
Style of Headwear: Garland
Colour:
Fabric: 100% artificial
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Artificial.
Details of construction:
Wire based circlet with artificial leaves sewn and glued onto the base. Flowers glued and stitched into place with cotton upholstery thread.
Documentation: 13th-14th century

Garland of ivy and berries

Country of Origin: All countries
Time period: 13th-15th century
Style of Headwear: Garland
Colour: Green and red
Fabric: 100% artificial
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Artificial.
Details of construction:
Wire based circlet with artificial fir tree and ivy leaves sewn and glued onto the base. Holly berries are glued and stitched into place with cotton upholstery thread.
Documentation: 13th-14th century

Garland of rosebuds

Country of Origin: All countries
Time period: 13th-15th century
Style of Headwear: Garland
Colour: Pale pink and green
Fabric: 100% artificial
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Artificial.
Details of construction:
Wire based circlet with artificial leaves sewn and glued onto the base. Pale pink rosebud flowers are glued and stitched into place with cotton upholstery thread.
Documentation: 13th-14th century.

Will possible revamp this to be less fluffy.

Garland of red roses

Country of Origin: All countries
Time period: 13th-15th century
Style of Headwear: Garland
Colour: Red
Fabric: 100% artificial
Details of Embroidery, Thread, Trim etc: Artificial.
Details of construction:
Felt circlet with artificial leaves sewn and glued onto the base. Velvet red roses are glued and stitched into place with cotton upholstery thread.
Documentation: 13th-14th century



Headwear & Hoods I've made for me
that I don't have anymore

Black wool buttoned hood

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with rounded small tippet
Outer Colour: black
Outer Fabric: Wool
Lining Colour: white
Lining Fabric: linen
Closures: pewter buttons reproductions from the Abbey Museum of Art and Archaeology
Decorative features: none
Construction method: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Based on existing hood patterns with shoulder gore. Buttonholes are hand stitched
Documentation: Luttrell Psalter 1345, England. Month of February, Duk du Berry Book of Hours 1402, France.

Silver silk hood with embroidery

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with embroidery
Outer Colour: Silver
Outer Fabric: 100% Silk
Lining Colour: Cornflower blue
Lining Fabric: 100% Silk
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: Silk embroidery- two lines and a line of scallops
Construction method: Hand stitched with silk thread. Based on existing hood patterns.
Documentation: Embroidery from the Romance of Alexander, France, 14th century

Olive wool hood with embroidery

Country of Garment: England, France
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with tippet
Outer Colour: Olive
Outer Fabric: Wool
Lining Colour: Off white
Lining Fabric: linen
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: Silk embroidery- 3 lines and a line of scallops around the bottom and 2 lines around the face, garnet beads on the scallop points..
Construction method: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Based on existing hood patterns.
Documentation: Romance of the Rose, 14th century

Pink wool hood with embroidery

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with tippet
Outer Colour: Pink
Outer Fabric: Wool
Lining Colour: White
Lining Fabric: linen
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: Wool embroidery- 2 sets of lines and a line of scallops around the bottom.
Construction method: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Based on existing hood patterns.
Documentation Romance of Alexander, 14th century.

Pumpkin wool open hood

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: 15th century
Type of Garment:
Open hood with tippet
Outer Colour: Pumpkin
Outer Fabric: 100% pure new Australian wool
Lining Colour: none
Lining Fabric: none
Closures: none
Construction method: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Based on existing hood patterns.
Documentation: Francais 164 folio 96 Samson et Dalila

Red wool hood

Country of Garment: England
Time Period: Late 14th century
Type of Garment:
Hood with long tippet
Outer Colour: Scarlet red
Outer Fabric: 100% Rough Pure New Australian Wool
Inner fabric: 100% cream linen
Closures: No closures
Decorative features: two lines of brown wool stitching aound the bottom added since photo was taken.
Construction method: Hand stitched with quilting thread. Based on bockstern-style pattern.
Documentation: Romance of Alexander, France, 14th century.

Black leather hood

Country of Garment: England
Type of Garment: Hood
Outer Colour: Black
Outer Fabric: Leather/suede
Lining Fabric: None
Closures: None
Decorative features: none
Construction method: Shoulder gore, hand stitched with black linen waxed thread with overlapping seams.

 

 

Copyright © Rosalie Gilbert
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Art & artifact images remain the property of the owner.
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