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Medieval
Cosmetics
FOUNDATION
- EYELINER & EYESHADOW - LIP
BALM - ROUGE
 Many
debate the use of cosmetics to enhance the female appearance during medieval
times, but there is a considerable amount of evidence for make-up during
this period. The statue at right is dated at 1350 and shows a well-made
up woman, her skin fashionably pale with plucked eyebrows, high hairline
and round forehead and a rosy glow which could not be due to anything
other than a generous amount of rouge.
Opinions varied even between members of the clergy as to the respectability
of wearing cosmetics. It was felt that it was generally not a desired
state, although it was mentioned that women who had been afflicted with
illness and were thereby made unattractive, were excused from the sin
of vanity by using cosmetics. The desire to not repel others or their
husbands was deemed an acceptable excuse for enhancement.
In the same vein, Thomas of Aquinas was questioned about the use of cosmetics
by woman and ha also grudgingly conceded that for a woman to make herself
as attractive as possible to her husband so that he might not stray into
the sin of adultery was itself not a sin, however, it was cautioned that
a woman should not make herself so beautiful that she should attract other
women's husbands.
 Foundation
Pictured at left, is a beautiful example of an ivory mirror back dated
at 1325-75 from a noble woman's personal toilette.
Studies have shown that women in England 'painted their faces white' to
achieve a paler-looking complexion. Women
often painted their faces with blaunchet or wheaten flour or used lead-filled
cosmetics. It was assured that the root of the Madonna lily would whiten
the face. Research also suggests 'ground lily root' made a powder for
faces, although it does not specify what kind of lily was recommended.
The Compendium Anglicus from 1240 written by Gilbertus Anglicus
recommends cyclamen root.
One recipe for a flour-based cosmetic to whiten the face comes from the
L'ornement des Dames in the 13th century. The method is as follows:
'There is a white make-up that is very
easy to make. Put very pure wheat in water for fifteen days, then grind
and blend it in the water. Strain through a cloth, and let it crystalise
and evaporate. You will obtain a make-up which will be as white as snow.
When you want to use it, mix it with rosewater, and spread it on your
face which has first been washed with warm water. Then dry your face
with a cloth.'
Eyeliner
and eyeshadow
Many books say that eyecolours and eyeliner were available during the
medieval period, and it is commonly known that since early antiquity the
Egyptians and later the woman of the Rus at Staraya Ladoga in the 10th
century were using eyeliner and eyeshadow, but a great many paintings
and sculptures for the High Middle Ages show women with pale and unadorned
eyes and eyebrows heavily plucked.
It would seem, therefore, that although the technology may have been available,
fashion dictated that eyeshadow and eyeliner was not often used.
Lip
balms, lipsticks and stains
Lip tinctures and balms made of beeswax seem to be the lip treatments
most commonly referred to. Beeswax and oil melted in a metal spoon and
allowed to cool made a semi-solid balm for smoothing the lips.
 One
recipe for a medieval lip balm described as a 'sweet smelling grease
that will keep the lips and hands from chapping and make them moist and
soft' comes from the book Secrets of Don Alessio Piemontese,
published in 1557.
'Take 12 oz of fresh suet and 6oz of marjoram
and pound them together. Form into balls and sprinkle with good wine.
Next put into some vessel and seal it tightly so that the odor of the
marjoram does not escape. Place in the shade for 24 hours and then put
into water. Cook slowly, then strain. This process must be repeated 4
or 5 times always adding another 9oz of suet. Finally a little musk or
civet can be added.'
There appeared also available a lip stain in use, but I have no information
about those at this point. Ther image at the left shows a woman with a
table of marjoram from the 14th century Tacuinum Sanitatis.
 Rouge
The ground leaves of angelica angelica archangelica were the principal
ingredient for the manufacture of 'ladies' red powder'. Dried flowers
of the safflower carthamum tinctorius were also used in the making
of rouge.
In a poem by a monk of Montaudon from 1180-1215AD, the writer stated that
the statues of the churches complain to God:
'that there is not enough paint left
to adorn them because of all the ladies who use rouge and cream.'
The Compendium Anglicus from 1240
written by Gilbertus Anglicus, mentions brazilwood chips soaked in rosewater
would give a clear, pink dye which can be rubbed on the cheeks. A 13th
century French song described in Love Lock'd Out, A Survey of Love,
Licence and Restriction in the Middle Ages
by James Cleugh refers to a peddlar who carries for sale:
'razors, tweezers, looking glasses,
toothbrushes and tooth-picks, bandaus and curling irons, ribbons, combs,
mirrors, rosewater... cotton with which they rouge themselves and whitening
with which they whiten themselves.'
showing the large range of grooming tools
which were in use at the time.
Copyright © Rosalie
Gilbert
All text & photographs within this site are the property of Rosalie
Gilbert unless stated.
Artifact images remain the property of the owner.
Images and text may not be copied and used without permission.
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